Gypsy Wind Part 5

Day Seven

April 28, 2016

Glenns Ferry, Idaho

MORNING IN GLENNS FERRY

We whipped up some bacon and eggs and real coffee for breakfast before we set about getting our act together and packing up the gear. The manager wandered over with his dogs on their early morning amble and we ended up having a great visit and learning a lot about the sights and experiences we would have on the back route, such as numerous waterfalls just popping out of nowhere, a chance to walk along the Oregon Trail as well as exploring fascinating fossils and of course, the crowning experience, hot springs! I’m sure if not for this informative chat we would have missed out!

Glenns Ferry is famous for the Oregon Trail River Crossing, where pioneers forded the dangerous waters of the Snake River. In 1869 Gustavus “Gus” Glenn began a vital ferry service. The town itself honors both Gus’s name and the service he initiated for the emigrants. Although, I did hear by the by, that this route was almost as deadly as the standard river crossing. Sometimes that ferry would dump the occupants, and tragedy was always a heartbeat away no matter which route was chosen.

Following the advice given to us we had taken Hwy 30 to the little town of Hagerman, which is situated in an area noted for its fossil beds and the Thousand Springs of the Eastern Snake Plain Aquifer. It was a glorious drive, the traffic was almost non-existent and we really enjoyed the views. The area is noted for its fossil beds, the Thousand Springs of the Eastern Snake Plain Aquifer, the Snake River and the Oregon Trail.

Our first stop was at the Visitor Centre, where we enjoyed talking with the Parks lady manning the desk. There were a number of fossils and a great deal of history of the area, and I actually broke down and bought a very special passport. A very cool little booklet where America's National Parks are all presented with the Passport To Your National Parks program. This travelogue includes color-coded maps, pre-visit information, illustrations and photographs. It includes a list of every national park area in the United States. Spaces allow you to collect the series of commemorative Passport stamps issued each year. It’s quite neat. Sadly, what with parks being closed I couldn’t get all of the cancellation stamps, but I did manage to get a few!

We left the Visitor Centre armed with a small tour map of the area, rather like LA’s ‘homes of the stars’ which led us off of the beaten path and into the past. From an old unused bridge used to carry the first fossil findings and expeditionary personnel back and forth, a viewpoint of the Snake River to a special experience of the Oregon Trail.

CRYS STEPPING INTO HISTORY

Crys and I walked alongside the actual Trail for a time, although it was hot and we weren’t equipped for the full 3 mile hike. You can see the ruts left by hundreds of thousands of wagons passing through as people made their way to a new life, one that they hoped was better. Even after all these years, those tracks are still there.

It took my breath away to be so close to such a vital piece of my own family history. To know that around 1843, my forebears were walking this same stretch of land was almost more than I could imagine. Roughly 2200 miles of trail from Missouri to Oregon, a five month journey at best, made by so many… amazing to reflect on.  

Following that little detour we continued on our way down hwy 30, marvelling at the number of waterfalls along the way, to another welcome experience, Miracle Hot Springs, located in Buhl Idaho. The last private room was taken, so we ended up getting a VIP room, where we soaked away the dust from our mini-hike and eased muscles tensing up from sitting so long!                       

MIRACLE HOT SPRINGS

Heading North on Hwy 93 from Twin Falls brought us to a sign for Idaho’s ‘Mammoth Cave & Shoshone Bird Museum.’ Taking the turn off the beaten track too us for a short drive down a dirt road to a very reasonably priced and off-beat attraction. An extremely fascinating museum collection of animals and artifacts that deserved far more than the hour we had to give, three generations had been collecting and garnering all of the treasures to be found here. Not content to stop at that, there was a cave - a lava tube! At present the cave is a quarter mile long, and utterly fascinating! It is being excavated continually, so don't stand by the measurement! 

We were handed old style lanterns and told to be careful as the top gets hot, then set off on a self-guided tour of the depths. Placards were placed here and there to inform us of different rock formations, and of course, an alert for bats! It was another world and I would recommend stopping by if you are in the neighbourhood!

We took a different road back to the highway, which came out a little north of where we had originally turned off. The sky was brewing up a storm, clouds dark and heavy were moving in and a wind was picking up. It was fixing to be a pretty crappy night. As big raindrops started dropping onto the windshield like small water balloons we pulled off to take a look at the Shoshone Trading Post.

STONE PEOPLE

Filled with wonderful geological and Native delights, one could spend a few hours looking through everything. Prices were actually very reasonable and a number of items caught my eye. However, practicality and a budget kept me from following the buyers impulse!

Since we’d come into the area Crys had been telling me about the Craters of the Moon National Monument, as she’d been through there on a family trip when she was younger. I was curious as to what I would be experiencing and my imagination was going insane! I discovered that was with good reason!

The Craters of the Moon National Monument is rather unsettling, to say the very least. It reminded me of a Heinlein book cover; alien and unknown. In truth, it is the remnants of volcanic eruption and flow. Lava rock, miles upon miles of lava rock. Black, deep chocolate and russet, with very little greenery to break it up. It is Nature is its rawest form; destruction and reformation. A wild place to visit, reminding me that we have no control over the power of Nature, and even though we can ‘borrow’ water, wind and land, it doesn’t belong to us and it will do as it will.

Crys happily went from formation to formation, enjoying the visuals. However, my mind turned darker and looked at the other side of the coin. Molten lava, hardened into rock complete with the textures of flowing and bubbling. What would happen if this volcanic chain decided to blow again? I won’t be forgetting the feeling of mild fear that this Monument instilled within me.

CRATERS OF THE MOON

We stopped to check out the offered camping, but it was honestly freezing and with the nasty weather, we decided it’d be best to push on to find a hotel. It wasn’t far to Arco, and while we looked into getting a camping spot there, once again the site manager wasn’t to be found, so we checked into  the Arco Inn Motel.

It didn’t look like much on the outside, but it was amazing. The beds were comfortable, and the night clerk was phenomenal! She went out of her way to ensure that a couple of chilled Canadians felt right at home. This woman was almost worth stopping for, herself! There were plenty of towels and sadly, 

once again, while there was a microwave, there were NO microwaveable cups and no in-room coffee. There was a huge pot brewed fresh in the morning, though. I know what you are thinking, why hasn’t she stopped and picked up a couple of microwaveable cups by now… well, slipped my mind whenever I was in a store, to be honest. Not too mention I’m an optimist.

Arco was actually quite the fascinating little place… on July 17, 1955 the lights of Arco were successfully powered by atomic energy.

ATOMIC ARCO

An experiment in the peaceful use of atomic energy. The energy for the experiment was produced at the National Reactor Testing Station in the Arco desert south east of the City.

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, please read the other parts here:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4