Gypsy Wind Part 4

Day Six

April 27, 2016

Peach Beach RV Campground

There is nothing like waking up in the morning and kick-starting the camp stove for a hearty

PEACH BEACH RV CAMPGROUND

breakfast and fresh hot coffee. We had enough leftovers to provide the breakfast part. However, the coffee was dumped after a single sip. I’ve never had a problem with individual serving pre-packaged coffee before, but I’d never purchased Folger’s before, either. That was a huge mistake, and will never be made again. It was the absolute worst coffee I had ever tasted, and no amount of cream or sugar would disguise it. Horrid, horrid, horrid!!!! 

We managed to survive without the needed caffeine fix long enough to eat, clean up our mess and load the truck. Crystal went to speak to the campground manager, just a few feet away and find out where the nearest coffee could be found, after showering of their dogs with lots of love, she returned and we were enroute to satisfy our caffeine cravings. We had to cross the Columbia to the nearest town of Biggs, a huge truck stop catering to the kings of the road. We picked up the coffee and a few other essentials, then took a look online for information on the Maryhill Museum. It wouldn’t open until 10:00am and it wasn’t even 9:00am yet.

Stonehenge with the mornings first cuppa, sounded like a grand idea!

STONEHENGE

Ok, it's NOT the real Stonehenge, but it is amazing! Tucked away, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, overlooking verdant orchards and the Columbia River. Plaques adorn the silent standing stones, memorializing 13 men from Samhill Co who gave their lives. Silent and stunning, this is an attraction that you don't want to miss!

STONEHENGE REPLICA

This Stonehenge was the first monument in the US to honour the dead of WWI.  It stood as a memorial to the residents of the area who had fallen in the war.

What an amazing piece of craftsmanship! I stood in awe before the monolith outside of the structure, then slowly made my way within. The altar stone is aligned with sunrise on the Summer Solstice, a grim reminder that humanity is still sacrificed to the god of war, and probably always will be. The monument was originally located in the center of Maryhill, which later burned down leaving the  Stonehenge replica. A lonely fire hydrant stands only feet away from the replica, a rather ironic reminder of the past.

CRYS IN FRONT OF THE ALTAR

There is a dedication plaque which is inscribed: "In memory of the soldiers of Klickitat County who gave their lives in defense of their country. This monument is erected in the hope that others inspired by the example of their valor and their heroism may share in that love of liberty and burn with that fire of patriotism which death can alone quench.”

An inspiring place for many reasons, including itself and of course, the incredible views of the Columbia River and Mt Hood’s brooding hulk. Amazing and so wonderful to have had it all to ourselves for a full exploration!

 

MARY HILL ART MUSEUM

We arrived at the enormous mansion that Sam Hill built for his wife so long ago just before opening and uncertain of what we would find within. A true visionary, Sam Hill made some exceptional additions to his mansion, adding electricity and underground parking for motor vehicles!

SAM HILL - VISIONARY GENIUS

Crystal and I agreed that the man resembled James Doohan of Star Trek fame, at least here. Other paintings and sculptures, not so much - but it was good for a few running jokes throughout the tour. This man was almost singlehandedly responsible for paved roadways in the area, and the history will blow your mind. The rather extensive grounds hold some delightful outdoor pieces, and walking about looking at them and trying to find them all helped us kill the time until the Museum itself opened. We were told to tell them “2-4-1 Wednesday” by someone, I believe the cashier where we got our coffee, which got us in for half price. The artwork within contains some phenomenal pieces including the breathtaking treasures of Queen Marie of Romania! Rodin’s sculptures fascinated and amazed, not too mention clothing, paintings, sculptures and numerous other delights such as chess sets from around the world over which Crystal and I spent a fair amount of time drooling. Stopping at the museum cafe for a quick bite after exhausting the exhibits led to yet another experience not to be missed!

MARY HILL MUSEUM

Loie’s is situated in a very modern addition to the mansion, offering views of the Columbia Gorge and River that literally take your breath away. Conversation was almost non-existent as we shared a divine smoked salmon and cream cheese sandwich on gluten free bread, with a side of potato salad AND perhaps the best dill pickle I have ever tasted in my life; cold, crisp and perfectly spiced! It was a huge portion and I’m glad we decided to split it. I enjoyed a relaxing Americano while Crystal was tantalized by a delightful Italian Soda.

LOIE'S CAFE

Feeling happily stuffed and lost in thoughts of the history we had just experienced, we were once again on the road. Since it was once again much later than we had planned on, we ended up taking I-84 instead of the back roads we had originally intended to travel. Rest areas gave us plenty of information about the Oregon Trail as we followed along the route that the emigrants had journeyed years ago, albeit backwards. Stopping for supplies in Nampa, Idaho turned into an all out exploration and by the time we left we were looking out for likely camp sites to spend the night.

I’m at a loss as to how difficult it is to find a decent camping spot. In BC, oh hell, in Canada there seems to be an abundance of them and you get used to being able to count on seeing them every so often. This didn’t seem to be the case for us on this trip.

GLENNS FERRY, IDAHO

After driving until well into the evening, as it was difficult to find any campgrounds near Boise, we made our way to historic Glenns Ferry. Where we had a choice, there was an RV park in what looked like it would be “downtown” and then a State Park, which while further out, was pricey and offered very little, not too mention there was no-one around and checking in was difficult without the exact amount.  We ended up returning to the Trailbreak RV Park where we had the luck of running into the owner just returning from walking his dogs.

Michael was fantastic! Checked us in after 11pm without any problems whatsoever, even went so far as to walk us to the site and explain everything. He was very charming and extremely informative about the area, as well, and ensured that we would be okay before leaving us on our own. The washrooms had a passcode, and were amazingly comfortable and the water was really hot - a  total blessing when your hands are freezing! The Trailbreak offered free WiFi, laundry facilities, firewood and even a large gazebo. It is an amazing deal for the dollar, much cheaper than the State Park just up the road, and I wish we could have stayed a second night here.

It wasn’t long before we had the tent set up, our gear organized and a little internet activity accomplished. We enjoyed a bag of popcorn for our supper as it was just too late to cook and we were both kind of tired, Crys more so as she had been driving all day. A phone call from home kept me up far longer than I’d intended or wanted, luckily Crys was able to fall asleep even though I did my best to keep it down. Glenn Ferry is a small town, and the RV Park is within its borders, but due to the design of Trailbreak and a large berm, the traffic honestly doesn’t interfere with sleeping soundly. I was kept awake even longer by a pair of hunting owls, by my choice and as I wasn’t anything to be considered food the haunting calls were lovely.  When I did drift off, I slept like a baby. We were visited in the morning by wild quail and a couple of squirrels, who were entertaining and quite far from annoying. A great place to pitch a tent, or park an RV.

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, please use these links if you've missed any previous parts:
Part 1 
Part 2 
Part 3 
 

Gypsy Wind Part 3

DAY FIVE

April 26, 2016

CASTLEROCK, WASHINGTON

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, please read part 1 and part 2

Once again the continental breakfast sucked. They didn't even bother to put out juices or creamer. Powdered milk, coffee, tea or hot chocolate and calorie laden monstrosities posing as doughnuts. The only thing this place had going for it was the free wifi and hot water. It's right by the highway, so the only way to get peace and quiet if traffic bothers you, is apparently at the back on the top floor. It doesn't bother me, so it wasn't a problem.

In Canada we usually include basic amenities in our hotel rooms, from the cheaper to the most expensive: coffee fixings, coffee maker, microwave, bar fridge AND microwaveable safe cups for reheating if needed. While in the US, they seem to thrive on skimping on the basics. You might get a microwave and a bar fridge, but most places won’t be outfitted with a coffeemaker, and any cups you might find are really cheap plastic things that would melt if you looked at them in anger. So, making coffee isn’t an option and reheating cold coffee isn’t an option either.

After a very disappointing continental breakfast effort, to the point of ‘why bother’, some serious research on the computer ensued. Crystal found the perfect place for breakfast in short time, although we certainly weren’t prepared for what we discovered. Peper’s 49 in Castle Rock turned out to be one of the most amazing culinary experiences of the entire trip for me. 

Old country charm meets urban appetites in this amazingly comfortable and history laden diner. The gold rush is immortalized here, in stunning decor and talented artistry.

GOLD RUSH DECOR

The portions are country sized - you know the ones that will fill you up for the day while you are out working hard?! Food is fantastic, and very well presented. I ordered a half order, but there was still enough for two. Hearty and flavourful sausage gravy smothered two biscuits, joined by two sausages perfectly browned and an amazing fresh egg that had the flavour and coloration you won't find with store bought anymore. Crystal was liking the food, but the coffee was really great and she was lost in a bottomless cup for a time.

COFFEEEEEEEEE

The coffee alone was worth going for, and wasn't served in one of those cutesy little cups that most places have, this rich brew was poured into a real mug! The coffee was a Canadian blend, apparently. I would definitely recommend this place to anyone, and if ever possible, I will be back!

The fog that had been floating around had burned off by the time we were done breakfast, and it was back to the hotel to get our stuff loaded into the truck and head out exploring the mountain that had shocked the Pacific Northwest with its brutal eruption in 1980. We got a little sidetracked by the Mt St Helen’s Gift Shop that was across the hotel parking lot. So sidetracked that we actually ended up spending a good hour in the shop and having a great time conversing with the owners. Amazing items can be found here, and there’s a fountain of information on the area, including one of the more mysterious denizens - Bigfoot. 

SQUATCH OF THE PNW

Both the gift shop and the restaurant are must visits if you are in the area!

Upon loading the truck, we made our way up to the Mt St Helen’s Visitor Centre. This was a very informative and great interactive experience. Crystal and I were blessed enough to grow up in the PNW, so the natural history and geological aspects were pretty much already known to us. We both ended up being far more interested in the lives of the locals that were touched by the eruption, and how amazingly the area had recovered and regrown in such a short period of time.

The Visitor Centre featured a wonderful walking tour through the forest and over a marsh; easy to navigate being gravel or boardwalk. I was amazed at the silent brooding beauty of the mountain itself; the new life that had burgeoned in the wake of its destruction. The area was filled with life; birds singing, bumble bees droning by, a great blue heron, ducks - it was a wonderful lazy feeling break.

MT ST HELEN'S

Crystal  struck up a conversation with a couple of gents who were taking photos of the birds, discovering that that was a nest up by the Centre.

We drove slowly down the mountain, each lost within our memories and thoughts. Stopping off for lunch at C&L Burgers, which had been recommended, we both had the elk burger. I really wasn’t all that impressed. The patty was similar to something McDonald’s would sell, and the flavour just wasn’t there. We both had milkshakes that blew us away though, made with real ice cream! Crystal tried the mocha espresso bean and I chose the blackberry. Neither was disappointing. 

After that we said farewell to Castle Rock, Washington and continued on towards Maryhill. Due to our experience of closed park roads we continued on the I5 until we got to the 205 then the 84. Apparently Crystal was feeling a little anxious about the whole ordeal of driving on unknown highways, but I’d have never ever guessed. She never missed an exit or a turn, it was really great driving with her. We crossed over the Columbia River from Washington to Oregon, and delighted in the views.

The air became drier, somehow emptier and the green slowly faded to khakis while the beloved forest giants turned to sparse grasses and sagebrush. We had left the Pacific Northwest behind us once again and entered into the desertlike climate of the interior.

We continued travelling east alongside the Columbia River until we reached The Dalles, where we crossed the river once again, back into the State of Washington.

MARYHILL, WASHINGTON

Highway 14 wound its way through ranch and wine country, arid and very reminiscent of the BC Interior near Kamloops and Merritt. I was excited to be nearing one of the places I really wanted to check out, and was looking forward to spending a relaxing evening around a campfire; planning out the next day, reminiscing over the trip so far, and just enjoying being alive. 

The big difference between backpacking and truck camping is the amount of things one can bring. We had most of the comforts of home all packed into Crystal’s truck, and were ready to find the campground and get set up for the night.

Peach Beach RV Park was hidden away behind an orchard and beside the Maryhill State Park, and it turned out to be absolutely perfect! They also allow camping the fun way - in a tent! I was led to the area by a Patricia Briggs novel originally, but was thrilled with the treasure we found!

PEACH BEACH & MARY HILL

There are a number of sites right along the river, which are perfect for tents, flat and fairly spacious. Right on the beautiful Columbia River in the Columbia River Gorge, it would be amazing in the summer and fall, as it is surrounded by peach orchards and there is a fruit stand. A privately owned park, it is quiet and has a friendly atmosphere. Only $25 a night, and that included both WiFi and hot showers.

There were a handful of RVs there, some apparently year round, but we were the only tent. It was a breeze setting up for the night, right alongside the river. It wasn’t much longer after that that we were settled in and eating a delicious camping supper of smokies and beans.

A rather chilly breeze started blowing in off of the river and we decided to go for a wander for a number of reasons.

MARY HILL CHURCH

It was such a beautiful area and walking would warm us up, to name a couple! We walked through the little streets of the small but historical village, finding a tiny church that had been built in 1888. Some fragrant roses planted near the front entrance, and I had to pause to smell them. It was a small but intriguing place, past and present collided everywhere you looked.

STOPPING TO SMELL THE ROSES

An ancient gas pump sat unused, while a nearby yard had free roaming chickens protected by a mighty house cat, beside it all ran the railroad. On a hill overlooking the village of Maryhill stood the attraction that I had come to see. In the falling twilight a dark and brooding shadow stood guard, a cement replica of the mighty and mysterious Stonehenge. This was full sized, and without the wear and tear and disintegration of the original in England. I looked forward to checking it out after breakfast.

We took our time heading back around the peach orchard, with a stunning view of the snow capped Mt Hood off to the West.

MT HOOD

We ended up checking out the private swimming cove in the campground, a small finger of land protected it from the river, providing a safe place for everyone to play and enjoy the cooling waters in summer’s heat. For now, it was far too chilly to even be entertaining the idea of a swim.

The darkness got thicker and the breeze got stronger as we headed towards the tent. The shelter of the tents and the warmth of our sleeping bags were definitely calling to us. While Crystal fell asleep in short order, I laid there reading, my mind partially on the book and partially on the amazing area we were in. It was quite a while before sleep finally chased me down, due in part to the almost constant train activity on the other side of the river; their whistles would cut the lonely darkness just as I was drifting away. I got used to it fairly quickly, but the imagination was spiked with every sounding, which kept me awake.