Sleeping Bags...

HOT OR COLD SLEEPER

First off, not every one has the same body temperature. Metabolism varies from person to person, ensuring that body temperature does so as well. Add in the fact that women, as a general rule, tend to sleep colder than men do. Why you ask? Because, believe it or not, we are designed more efficiently. We have an extra layer of fat that men don’t, and to keep our core warm, we pull heat from the extremities. Yes, those icy toes and fingers that can set your partner shrieking in the middle of the night!

This is why you see most women bundled up for bed in the colder months (and sometimes the warmer ones), while their other half is sporting a pair of boxers and nothing more. Women need more warmth.

Sadly, I know this one from experience. I tend to sleep really cold, except in the summer. Even then some nights are questionable. I need to make sure I’ve got a few extras to stay warm, including a liner for my sleeping bag, and a top cover. As well as a really good sleeping mat. I’ve encountered snow and freezing temperatures in the Spring months, so… I learned my lesson! I like my sleep and I don’t like getting sick.

When a bag has a temperature rating of say +35º(F), that means it is a summer sleeping bag, and the user will remain comfortable IF the temperature outside goes no lower than 35º(F). A 3-season bag will normally have a rating of +10º(F) to +35º(F). Your winter sleeping bags are +10º(F) or lower. These guides will be assuming that you are sporting long underwear as well as using a sleeping pad to keep the ground chill from affecting you. A lot of the manufacturers these days are also adding in a temperature rating for women, as well.

If you plan on being a summer camper only, then you ought to be okay with the summer bag, although I would think about a 3 season bag for some areas. However, if you are planning on hitting the wilds during the other seasons, look into a bag that will handle temperatures a little lower than the worst you expect to be experiencing.

If you find you get too hot, you can always open the zipper. However, if you find you are freezing, then it can be difficult - if not impossible -  to get warm again.

Your sleeping bag works with you to keep you warm. When zipped up properly, it traps a layer of  ‘dead air space’ around you. This non-circulating air is warmed up by your body heat and the bag traps it in with you.

CAMPING OR BACKPACKING

You also need to match the sleeping bag with the activity. Camping bags tend to have more room and be more comfortable. However, they weigh more and have more ‘dead air space’ which needs to be warmed up. So, they are technically less efficient than backpacking bags are.  They are also difficult to take backpacking if you are going any distance as they take up far too much room.

SHAPE

There’s a whole variety of shapes out there these days. The most common of which and used prevalently for camping is the rectangular bag. As long as the zippers match up you can join them to make one large bag for two to share. This is great, but not so efficient in the colder months. So keep that in mind.

The barrel shaped bags are still basically a rectangular shape, but they’ve been tapered for comfort and room. These are fantastic for the restless or claustrophobic sleepers who cannot abide the mummy bag, and who want something easier to heat than the standard bag.

The mummy bag is fantastic for staying warmer, although far more restrictive. It is also lighter and less of a burden on the trail.

It all depends on what you are going to be doing, what you are personally comfortable with. Some people love the mummy bag, while others couldn’t sleep in it if their life depended on it. Take the time before you go out to find what is comfortable for you, because once you are out there, it’s too late to discover you aren’t comfortable.

FILLING

Once upon a time it was simple, all that was available was down. Then came the synthetics. Offering a heavier bag, but far more element friendly.

Synthetic fill has a lot of things going for it. It has a much friendlier price tag, not too mention it is quick drying should the worst happen. It can stand up to the kids and pets far better than a down filled bag would. The one thing that the synthetic bag really has against it, it just doesn’t pack down as small as the down, so it’s not quite as versatile if you are going to be backpacking.

These days weight and heat holding ability are about matched up between synthetic and down. Compression factors are getting closer and closer all the time, as well. However, the down bags still beat out the synthetics.

Down is wonderful for warmth and a down bag tends to last longer than a synthetic, which is why the higher cost. The Down bag has a weakness - moisture. When wet, it loses its insulating ability and won’t do squat to keep you warm. So that is a huge risk if you are heading out backpacking. Although, now there are water resistant down bags; they’ve been chemically treated to repel the water. This helps to a certain extent. If you want to go beyond the standard down bag, you can also step up to the even more durable goose down.


WOMEN’S BAGS

These are simply wonderful! Specifically designed, and engineered to match the contours of a woman - wider at the hips and narrower at the shoulders, and the bags are shorter! They also thought of the added kindness of extra insulation in the upper body and the foot area. Ensuring a far more comfortable sleep.

The best way to purchase is to decide what you want the bag for, your preferred materials, and what you can afford. Once you have those options covered, it narrows the field allowing you to find a bag that will fit your body comfortably. Not too big so you freeze your hinny off, and not too small so you are uncomfortable and too warm. Do your research and you’ll have a comfortable sleep.

Happy Trails!

Gypsy Wind Part 8

Day Ten

May 1, 2016

Flathead Lake, Montana

FLATHEAD LAKE

Flathead Lake was stunning! It even reminded me of home from a number of vantage points. However, it was also very disappointing where camping was concerned. The few places available were extremely pricey for your basic no frills camp site and then not the greatest places to pitch a tent. One of the numerous State campgrounds actually had sites that sloped to the lake, I’d not like to try sleeping there, I prefer to lay flat. Another place had the tent sites so far from the parking as to make it completely ludicrous to even think about it unless you were backpacking. Others were across the highway circling the lake and had no views nor amenities. We really ended up having no option but to pay an arm and a leg for a hotel room, spend a very uncomfortable night, or push on to Kalispell.

Crystal was tired and frankly sick of driving, and I couldn’t blame her a bit. We were both sorely disappointed having looked forward to a night or two at the Flathead Lake, but there really was nothing for it. After driving all the way around the lake and stopping at McDonalds in order to make use of their WiFi, we realized without a doubt that our best interests lay in pushing on.

We reached Kalispell close to midnight, and both of us were beat. The Guesthouse Inn and Outlaw Convention Centre was the best place to check in from all we could garner on Trivago and Trip Advisor. The reviews were mixed, but it leaned towards the good just enough to make it worth looking into. We pulled into the parking lot and up to the doors of a huge monstrosity that sat hulking in the night, wondering what would be in store for us.

Turns out that this was an amazing find! Manning the front desk was one incredible young man, Cody. He not only checked us in, but he kept the pool and hot tub open an hour later than usual to allow for some much needed deep heat! We had just done the Lewis and Clark Caverns that morning, after all! The hot tub felt wonderful, and a couple of laps in the pool helped to work out the stiffness beginning to take hold. Our room was massive and spotless, the queen beds comfortable and four pillows each allowed maximum comfort positioning. The bathroom was divine, it too was large and offered all the comforts, from heat light to blow dryer. Originally a huge hotel/casino/convention centre, this hotel still has much to offer. Hugely reduced rates are a definite attraction, although this 

place is worth much more. The WiFi is high speed and no glitches, a welcome addition!

We both went to sleep in short order, and slept the sleep of the dead!

Day Eleven

May 2, 2016

Kalispell, Montana

Sadly, the continental breakfast was a HUGE disappointment. We had been led to believe that there was a full breakfast offered, including eggs, meats, etc. There wasn't. There was the usual fare, plus the addition of a nifty option of regular or blueberry mix which you could make into either pancakes or waffles. We didn't get to check out all of the amenities, there was a fitness room, gift store, etc., but we passed on them.

Packing up in short order, we headed out the door to find real food. We stopped in at Scotty’s Bar for breakfast as the parking lot was packed and Crys was starving - a combination not to be avoided! I was blown away by the 'Cowboy Omelette' that was one of the morning specials. A huge omelette of steak, peppers, mushrooms and cheese. Nothing special, you say? Well, top that off with a rich brown gravy, flooded with grated cheese and you've got something incredible! Served up with an equally huge serving of hash browns, this meal was far more than I could handle at one sitting! I'm glad I nixed the toast, although, I did finish the orange slice! Under ten dollars gets you a huge filling meal, and a bottomless cup of exceptionally decent coffee!

Afterwards we took in the local thrift store, where I found a huge score (4 pairs of jeans and a new suede jacket all for under $25), and Crys got to talking with someone and it ended up we both made a great new friend! We had fun wandering about and searching for items that we needed, wanted or that just plain aroused our curiosity. Sooner than later it was time to hit the open road again with a couple of planned stops this time!

Hwy 2 took us north once again, then east for a time. We had no choice but to end up circling south around the base of Glacier National Park due to more ‘closed for winter’ road issues. Yes, it’s May, it’s gorgeous, but the roads are all closed. We stopped in Columbia Falls proper to attend to my coffee addiction at the outlet for the Montana Coffee Traders. A delightful little coffee shop and store, Crys and I each ordered something to wet the whistle and something to nibble. I also picked up a couple of 12 oz packages of fresh roasted coffee. One artificially flavoured Huckleberry, and is it ever good! I also purchased the ‘Grizzly Blend’ which is dedicated to the preservation of the grizzly habitat, and for every pound sold one dollar goes to Vital Ground to secure the future of the grizzly bear. The coffee is exquisite, and I will need to travel to Montana to get some more, soon.

The next stop intrigued me, but not quite as much as Crys, as I tend not to drink all that much. We travelled a distance and then pulled into Glacier Distilling’s Whiskey Barn, where we were tempted with numerous tantalizing taste delights.

Crys tried four and I tried four, all different, so we swapped a sip here and there and discovered that our tastes were not as dissimilar as first expected. I found a delicious whiskey and purchased a bottle, I should have gotten more but that is just yet another reason to head south of the border! Beargrass, which is a barrel-aged grappa lightly sweetened with honey from Glacier County Honey Company. It carries notes of fresh cut flowers, green grapes and sunshine. I really like it. Crys bought a bottle of the Wheatfish Whisky, as well as a Vodka.

After a wonderful, yet all too brief visit, we returned to our journey. Not too far along we found a great pull off in the Flathead National Forest where we could take a play break and do yoga, play in the water and just ‘be'. It was wonderful!

CRYS IN A YOGA MOMENT

Eventually we had to return to the road, and we did, turning north on Hwy 49 which finally joined up with Hwy 89. The views of the mountains were fantastic and it was rather depressing knowing we couldn’t travel through the Park. We reached the Blackfeet Reservation and were looking for a place to camp for the night, however nothing reached out to us. No signs, no stores, there was literally nothing to tempt a stop at this point.

Oddly, we traveled ourselves right out of the US and into the hands of the dour guards at the Carway Border, and I had thought the initial Guard was grumpy! We’d really stepped into it this time, unfortunately! Since we’d been expecting at least one more night south of the border, we had a bundle of wood left. Not only were we pulled over, but we were actually searched - all due to one simple moment of forgetfulness.

We were told to go sit on this cart, which had some kind of damp covering on it. No thanks, I’ll stand. I requested my coffee cup from the truck, and then had to pop the top off to prove there was nothing illegal in it. I almost asked him if he’d like a sip, but didn’t. I know they were doing their jobs, but to be treated as a criminal before you are proven as one really is a slap in the face.

Finally, we were cleared without any other issues. Both of us were feeling pretty crappy by then, we’d not fulfilled promises to purchase items for friends and loved ones, and we didn’t get our last night beneath the stars in the States. 

FAREWELL USA!

Finding a campground wasn't so simple back in Alberta that night, either. We checked out two and settled on one in Lethbridge, the Country Campground, right across the road from a country club. The proprietor was wonderful and once we had picked out a spot, Crys got some firewood. I had to laugh, we were allowed an armload and Crys can fit a whole heck of a lot into her arm! Enough to last us the night, anyhow.

A subdued supper of smokies and roasted marshmallows and the mood was finally lightened! There was an owl hunting, and we were able to not only identify it, but use a downloadable program to call out to it. We were listening to the hunting cries of a Northern Hawk Owl.

GYPSY WIND TRIP FINAL CAMPFIRE

We prolonged the evening as long as we possibly could, but we were tired and most definitely depressed. Even so, sleep was a long time coming once I’d crawled into my sleeping bag 

Day Twelve

May 3, 2016

Lethbridge, Alberta

Our final breakfast on the road was exquisite! Nothing ever tasted quite so good as that fresh coffee, fried bacon and eggs all enjoyed under the morning sunshine in fresh air. Packing up had a bittersweet tone to it. This was the last night, for this trip. There would be others, we weren’t done, yet.

The road beckoned as it always does, and we loaded up in a somewhat organized manner for dividing belongings easily at our home destinations. Then we meandered along until we came to Vulcan, Alberta. Ok, my curiosity had long been aroused by this place and after living here for 5 years I still hadn’t been able to satisfy it.

 

Hello Vulcan, Alberta!

USS ENTERPRISE

A place of intriguing science fiction memorabilia and some pretty interesting cutout characters to hang out with. Worf’s face was missing from the outside board where you can take a mug shot with the cast and crew from ST:TNG, so I stuck my head through there and Crys snapped a photo. Inside the visitors centre all sorts of interesting items are for sale, and you can actually put on a costume and take a photo with those cool cutout characters I mentioned. I went for a transporter shot and one with Captain Jean Luc Picard, but to be honest, it didn’t really do much for me.

I bought a water bottle that changes colors, which is kinda cool, looked at a few clothing items and Crys poked about a bit and talked to the cashier for a little while. It was cute and cheesy, in my honest opinion, but worth checking out. I’m glad we stopped.

Our next stop was a Tim Horton’s in Calgary - ahhh yes, it is good to be home for that reason! However, the clerk didn’t get it and Crys ended up with a Maple Iced Coffee that had a double or triple shot of maple flavouring in it. It was enough trouble getting it in the first place, much less going back in and straightening things out to get a new one. She suffered with it. 

It was only three hours later I was home.

That was it.

No more.

The trip had ended.

I honestly wanted to leave again, right away. My spirit crying for the open road and the two of us exploring and traveling and just having a grand old time.

Soon, I tell it. Soon. 

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, please read any you may have missed here:
Part 1
Part 2 
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7 

STAY TUNED FOR OUR NEXT WANDER!

 

Gypsy Wind Part 7

Day Nine

April 30, 2016

Bozeman, Montana

Rainbow Motel was disappointing with the internet service, especially after the lady who checked us in the night before said that the room she’d put us in had never had good service. We inquired specifically about the WiFi when we check in, what the hell was she thinking? I mean, seriously! There were a couple of men in the office enjoying the news on tv and the offered continental breakfast. One of them was up from Florida, and he was excited to be starting a job at one of the restaurants in Yellowstone Park in a couple of days. The other was a well travelled gent from the LA area. Great coffee! It was hot and rich and was perfect for breakfast. It was freezing cold outside, a mild but steady wind had a very nasty bite to it and you could almost smell snow on the air - almost!

After cooling our heels over coffee and ‘breakfast’ we took a look at a couple of second hand stores across the street for odds and ends. However, nothing really caught our interest, and we escaped with all of our money still in our pockets. We happily returned to the hotel and loaded up the truck, then refilled our coffee mugs. It was off to our third mandatory destination - the Lewis and Clark Caverns! It was a very short drive, only an hour, so we took our time and enjoyed the scenery.

WE MADE IT!

LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK, Whitehall Mt

We found the perfect spot for us, but little did we know that the cabin standing so silently nearby would soon be filled with shrieking children, one of which did everything he could to get the rest in trouble, screaming, crying, yelling, whining. He was one of those kids guaranteed to drive you crazy.

We managed to ignore the noise for the most part and enjoyed what we could of the scenery. Savouring the excitement of being there for opening day! We would be in the first group of 2016 to enter the Caverns, if all went well. Crys went for a walk and got to know most of the dog owners in the small camping area. Most of whom were really great. We were joined by a couple from Missoula who were also tenting it, everyone else was ensconced in RV’s or the two or three small cabins. It was a lazy great day, from my point of view. We escaped once for a jaunt to pick up firewood from a gas station/convenience store not too far away. Amazing deal - $6 for a bundle of wood which included kindling, paper and matches! We got three of them. We also got a couple of extra bundles from the Visitor Centre at the Park. 

Hunger and curiosity got the best of us and we went to the Wheat Montana Bakery & Deli. Sadly, there wasn’t anything that Crys could really enjoy, however, I got a decadent sub loaded with ham, pulled pork, cheese, and a bunch of other goodies. I was rather shocked to find that the pulled pork was in a white sauce, and I’m used to the bbq variety. It was different, but delicious.

We had taken our tour of the lower Visitor Centre and enjoyed it immensely. We also met one of the new Park Rangers who would be beginning this season, he was from Long Island, and extremely personable. Crys also noticed a sign on the outside door that intrigued both of us. There was to be an ‘Owl Night Hike’ with Park Ranger Tom Forwood Jr. There was a $4.00 admission fee, but it wasn’t much and could be worth so much more. We signed up.

We all met back at the lower Visitor Centre at 7:30pm. We dressed warmly as there was a soft but biting breeze, and winter was still trying to get her claws into the world while spring fought valiantly to beat her off. A group get together in the meeting room taught us a lot about the owls in the area, and I even learned something. Great Horned Owls are immensely disliked as they will not only feast upon rodents, reptiles and arachnids but they will also hunt other birds - including owls. They could be the great bane, winged death and also genocide. They are large, fierce and don’t seem to fear anything in the skies.

Owls are year round denizens of the park and while vocal all year, are most so in the early spring. In the lower park, right on the border of the campground, was a wonderful nest. That of the Great Horned owl, and even contained some adorable little owlettes. We all got to look through the telescope and marvel at these wonders of the hunting realm. There were two nests and we saw more owls than I would have thought possible so close to humans, but I guess the pickings would be better there; everyone feasting on the humans waste in their circle of life.

GREAT HORNED OWLS

After a lengthy wander and discussions, yes discussions, we piled into vehicles and drove up into the closed park. That was kind of a thrill, as Ranger Forwood had to unlock the gates and let everyone in. We drove for perhaps a mile up the mountain and then pulled over and walked a short distance further. We were hunting for owls, particularly the Northern Saw-whet.

Ranger Forwood had a lovely set of recordings on his cell phone and used them to ‘lure’ any nearby owls into showing themselves. We strained to hear something, anything that would resemble an owl call, but nothing. Another nearly silent walk for about a half mile up the mountain to a look out point. Out came the cell phone again. This time we were rewarded. From out of the deep darkness of the night came a high pitched “too-too-too”. We had flushed a Saw-whet out of hiding.

I still have to wonder if that was the right thing to do, or not. To knowingly get a small owl to show itself when there were Great Horned Owls in the near vicinity. Would they get him at some point, or would he fly free and safe? I’ll never know.

It was a phenomenal experience, quietly hiking up the steep road while listening intently for the calls of the owls, and knowing that this was something not everyone gets to do. A treat, a thrill, make sure you check it out next year!

We fell into bed and into deep sleeps, tired after all the fresh air and the exhilarating walk. The skies still threatened rain, but neither of us was worried.

Day Ten

May 1, 2016

Whitehall, Montana

Lewis and Clark Caverns

Morning dawned bright and fair at the Lewis and Clark Caverns National Park, and we got our standard camping fare breakfast done and out of the way, packing up our gear had to wait until after the Caverns due to heavy condensation. Okay, so NEVER put a tarp over the tent, always string it up and leave lots of breathing room. Valuable lessons one learns while camping!

We finally made our way up the mountain; a curvy drive with absolutely gorgeous views. The sun was warm and it was one of those mornings when everything just felt right. Tickets were purchased after talking with the cashier, who was kind enough to give me a head start so I wouldn’t get left behind. It’s a 300 foot vertical ascension, spread out over a mile or so, so to be honest I was rather worried about if I would make it or not. For the first time, my limitations might really mess up my plans. It was bad before, now I get to add osteoarthritis to the list of health issues.

Crys and I made our way across the parking lot to the cafe/gift shop and poked around there for a time. I was to leave at 9:15 and the rest of the group at 9:30. We had a few minutes to poke about and check things out, and of course make a purchase or two.

When it was time we headed up the mountain, and I couldn’t have asked for a better day for a hike. It wasn’t as bad as I had been fearing, but I am glad that I had the extra time. Crys and I made it to the top in decent time, I didn’t stop along the way to rest although I wanted to; too stubborn, I guess. One of the group turned back about halfway to the entrance, and I’m glad it wasn’t me. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that experience for anything!

NI ABOUT TO DESCEND

I was amazed throughout the entire hike through the Caverns. Such intense beauty, so many hundreds of thousands of years to form. I was saddened by the amount of people who don’t heed the rules and run their hands along the formations. Oils from our hands kill those living rocks and they won’t grow anymore. They become polished over time, and there are numerous pieces of stalactites and stalagmites missing. I believe it takes a 100 years to grow a millimetre, if it will grow. Sometimes the water sources have moved and that’s it for that formation.

Crys was right, it was definitely worth it. Every inch of the delightfully amazing caverns shared something new and beautiful. There’s even one spot where you have to slide down on your bum and there’s a small bump in the middle. The rock here is slick and shiny from use, and just utterly gorgeous. 

There are certain formations with names, and each separate ‘room’ has its own designation.

INSIDE THE CAVERNS

Some areas you can look through to but cannot enter, and they’re stunning as well. The history of the Caverns is just amazing, and the original tours were led by candle light held in tin cans, similar to the old miners.

EERIE FORMATIONS

How this was found, explored and then shared is enough to boggle the brain, and incidentally, it wasn’t Lewis and Clark who discovered the Caverns. It was actually discovered in 1882 by two people from Whitehall, Montana, Charles Brooke and Mexican John. The story is fantastic, and thankfully the tour guide will tell you the whole thing.

Our tour was led by Amy, who’d been here the year before and had the spiel down to a science. We hit a step that was marked “1 Mile High” and I had to wonder, is there a mile high club for underground as well as in the skies? Twisted, yes, but it does make you wonder and I had to ask. Amy informed me that in the 70’s there were probably a number of initiates, but that it wouldn’t be likely today. It felt odd to be that high above sea level, but be underground.

There were no problems with claustrophobia from anyone, and apparently that is quite rare, too. Fresh air circulates through the Caverns, even where the bats reside there is very little smell from them.

This is a natural scenic wonder that ought to be visited at least once in a lifetime. Myself, I plan on going back, and I know Crystal does too. In fact, this was her second trip through and I’m glad she suggested coming here for our trip. 

An hour or so later we emerged into the blinding sunlight once more, and made our way back to civilization, such as it is. Everyone was chatting amiably and remarking on the different aspects of the Caverns and the beauty, it was quite the feeling of peaceful camaraderie, but broken all too soon as we said farewell.

Once back at the campsite, we packed and loaded up our gear and turned our attention to the map once again. I-90 led us to hwy 93, which took us up to what was supposed to be our next destination for a night or two.

Didn’t happen. Once again we were greatly disappointed.


Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, if you happened to miss any you can catch up here:
Part 1 
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

 
 

Gypsy Wind Part 6

Day Eight

April 29, 2016

Arco, Idaho

The coffee was hot and fresh at 0700 and I was happy! We loaded up the truck and headed out. In all honesty, most of the morning is a complete blur to my memory. I remember miles upon miles of empty land. Atomic City, a nuclear boomtown that became a ghost town roughly 66 years ago. There was once 50 nuclear reactors in the nearby National Reactor Testing Station, but after a string of deadly accidents, the town emptied out and at least three employees had to be buried in lead coffins. Makes you wonder.

There was a number of things that would definitely feed numerous conspiracy theories. Huge fences, stay out or regret it themed signs, a small mountain top stuck with so many antennas it looked like a foreign object itself. It wasn’t exactly the most comfortable of places to drive through and for the first time since we left Alberta, I really didn’t want to be somewhere.

Crys wanted to go to Idaho Falls as we were looking for a branch of a US Bank that would work with her bank back in Canada. I’m sure most of you know how this goes, some branches offer access to accounts at other institutions which is helpful when you are travelling. Well, we looked, but apparently it had been closed for some time. The benefit of this detour was a Sizzler Restaurant! Steak and a salad bar to beat all, and I hadn’t seen one since I was a kid!

It was about this time that I started feeling off, or perhaps I had been all day and it had been mild enough that I just hadn’t noticed. I wonder in retrospect if the area had anything to do with it; electrical impulses etc., etc. All that stuff works on the body and epilepsy is an electrical phenomena of its own. Anyhow, long story short, my steak as amazingly delicious and melted in my mouth, but I couldn’t finish it all. We went out to the truck, where I sadly placed the take out container on the roof and then forgot to grab it. My steak didn’t make it out of the parking lot; a waste.

From Idaho Falls we headed north once again, taking hwy 20 and passing through a small town called Rigby. It is fairly nondescript, and you’d not really think twice, except for the sign that caught my eye: "RIGBY IDAHO - THE BIRTHPLACE OF TELEVISION." Apparently, Rigby was the boyhood home of the inventor of television, Philo T. Farnsworth. Just one of those things that make you go ‘hmmmm.’

We continued on hwy 20, which would eventually lead us to the West entrance of Yellowstone National Park. Old Faithful was the next mandatory highlight on our list and we were both filled with excitement at wandering throughout the attraction within the areas of Yellowstone that are open before the roads are all opened, as the number of tourists would be at a minimum.

Say farewell to Idaho and hello to Wyoming, which is where the majority of Yellowstone National Park is located. We were both completely jazzed as we drove through the park, a lone bison walked down the edge of the road giving everyone a great view of a magnificent beast. A brief blast of hail caused a minor accident on the road on the way into Old Faithful and the Visitor Centre, luckily nobody appeared to be hurt. We notified a pair of Rangers who were just finishing up some business at a small parking lot; with the narrow roads in the park there isn’t a lot you can do in any abnormal situation, just notify the Rangers and don't block the roads.

We reached the Visitor Education Center at Canyon Village without any more excitement and were overjoyed to find out we only had a 45 minute wait, roughly, until Old Faithful was due to explode once again. That allowed me to get the passport stamped and both of us to learn a few things. Sadly, the Grand Loop Road was closed due to winter, so we would have to backtrack as far as Madison and then head north to Mammoth Hot Springs and the North Entrance to Yellowstone. It was all good, though.

The air was bitterly cold and we were well bundled up as we went outside to join the small crowd waiting for the geyser to erupt. As it finally blasted, there were a number of disappointed remarks and sounds. It was freezing out. When hot water meets cold air you get steam. Naturally, it wasn’t as impressive as it is in the summer, but it was still pretty grand! After all, not just every area has geysers galore, and one that runs on a pretty steady schedule is very amazing in my mind. So nothing to be disappointed in, still beautiful, still impressive and well worth the freezing wait! 

"OLD FAITHFUL"

I have now seen it in summer and in spring (although it was acting like winter it was spring!), and I hope I can come back and see Old Faithful again, and explore the park fully. Perhaps try to camp around it for a week, or so. I don’t even know if that would be enough time to take it all in.               

We headed across the parking lot to the souvenir shop where we looked for reasonably priced items of clothing and other items of interest. There was a great deal that caught my eye here, but the prices were also typical of tourist mecca’s. We didn’t stay too long as the light was fading and we wanted to enjoy a few more sites before we left the park.

The Lower Geyser Basin wasn’t too far away, where we would find the Fountain Paint Pot Nature Trail, and the Fountain Paint Pot. Crys wanted to revisit this incredible place, and I hadn’t seen it the last time I was at Yellowstone. I am SO glad that we stopped. This trail was filled with wonder after wonder and I couldn’t believe my eyes. In some ways this is so much MORE than Old Faithful, numerous smaller geysers of varying kinds that impress and amaze. This was just as alien a landscape as the Craters of the Moon, but it wasn’t ‘dead’ it was burgeoning with life.
 

TRAIL MAP

Perhaps the most amazing experience of the

PAINT POTS

whole trip took place in between the Spasm Geyser and the Jelly Geyser. We were walking and talking animatedly, lost in the conversation we rounded the corner, which had been hidden by stunted trees on the south side, and came face to face with a giant bison. He was simply gorgeous, powerful, and deadly.

Silence reigned supreme as we both momentarily froze. I lifted the camera and with my heart in my mouth, took a photo as Crys quietly and carefully began walking again. Only a few feet away and there were trees to protect us if we needed. He kept eating, one eye on us rather disinterestedly, and a few steps later another one was seen up behind him, grazing quietly. Camouflage is amazing on these big plains giants. They blended in so well, that we wouldn’t have seen them if we hadn’t known exactly where to look.

LORD OF THE REALM

By the time we were to the farther trees and what we thought might provide a little safety, our heart beats had slowed down to something more akin to normal. I’m not certain about Crys, but the writer in me was capturing every detail of the moment, and I was astounded that we had been so close we could touch him, and he couldn’t have cared less. Wild in the wilderness…

We were giddy with the leftovers of the adrenaline as we continued on our journey. I saw a timber wolf trotting down an access road, and was struck positively dumb. Such a gorgeous creature, and doing well since reintroduced to the park. A little further on and there was a bear just below the treeline. The one and only bear I would see the entire trip, I welcomed the brief glimpse.

The sky had been growing more menacing and the temperature dropped like a bomb, but truly neither of us was prepared for what hit next - SNOW! Okay, so perhaps there’s a reason the roads are closed in April. Maybe the States have a reason for having a slightly different time frame for their season. Perhaps we had been too harsh in our judgement. No, I still don’t think so. The flakes were huge and wet, and they kept falling thicker and thicker. This was insane and completely unexpected, and of course, exciting.

SPRING IN YELLOWSTONE

Crys handled the drive through the park like a trooper, past some pretty harsh and steep; Obsidian Cliff (7383 feet or 2250 metres), Sheepeater Cliff (unknown), that ought to give you the idea. The road had only been opened for two weeks, and here it was snowing. We finally reached the North Gate and were back into Montana. The road through Roosevelt Arch was closed, but that was ok, we went around it and stopped a little ways down the road in Gardiner for a hot coffee and an “oh my god we made it” moment.

Heading North on Hwy 89, we turned West when we reached the I-90 and set our hopes on Bozeman for the night. Camping was out of the question for this night. Snow, nerves, and a harrowing drive called for a comfortable bed and a hot shower. Checking through TripAdvisor and Trivago we located the Rainbow Motel in Bozeman, it looked promising. Mid-price, mid-ratings and free WiFi. It would do, provided they had a room for us.

After checking and getting comfortable we discovered that the Internet wasn’t exactly all it was supposed to be. I couldn’t get a connection for the life of me. Crys managed to get one, but it was fairly sketchy. I was once again thankful for the Travel Pass I picked up before leaving, it allowed me to do a lot I wouldn’t have dared otherwise.

We were both nerved up and tired, so it took a little while to pass out. I was able to reheat my coffee in the nuker, so I was happy with that. Also, the cup was salvageable for another cuppa when I wanted! TV reception was great, there was enough empty plug-ins to accommodate all of our electronic gear. It was definitely nice to be warm.

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, in case you have missed any previous parts:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5