Gypsy Wind Part 7

Day Nine

April 30, 2016

Bozeman, Montana

Rainbow Motel was disappointing with the internet service, especially after the lady who checked us in the night before said that the room she’d put us in had never had good service. We inquired specifically about the WiFi when we check in, what the hell was she thinking? I mean, seriously! There were a couple of men in the office enjoying the news on tv and the offered continental breakfast. One of them was up from Florida, and he was excited to be starting a job at one of the restaurants in Yellowstone Park in a couple of days. The other was a well travelled gent from the LA area. Great coffee! It was hot and rich and was perfect for breakfast. It was freezing cold outside, a mild but steady wind had a very nasty bite to it and you could almost smell snow on the air - almost!

After cooling our heels over coffee and ‘breakfast’ we took a look at a couple of second hand stores across the street for odds and ends. However, nothing really caught our interest, and we escaped with all of our money still in our pockets. We happily returned to the hotel and loaded up the truck, then refilled our coffee mugs. It was off to our third mandatory destination - the Lewis and Clark Caverns! It was a very short drive, only an hour, so we took our time and enjoyed the scenery.

WE MADE IT!

LEWIS AND CLARK CAVERNS NATIONAL PARK, Whitehall Mt

We found the perfect spot for us, but little did we know that the cabin standing so silently nearby would soon be filled with shrieking children, one of which did everything he could to get the rest in trouble, screaming, crying, yelling, whining. He was one of those kids guaranteed to drive you crazy.

We managed to ignore the noise for the most part and enjoyed what we could of the scenery. Savouring the excitement of being there for opening day! We would be in the first group of 2016 to enter the Caverns, if all went well. Crys went for a walk and got to know most of the dog owners in the small camping area. Most of whom were really great. We were joined by a couple from Missoula who were also tenting it, everyone else was ensconced in RV’s or the two or three small cabins. It was a lazy great day, from my point of view. We escaped once for a jaunt to pick up firewood from a gas station/convenience store not too far away. Amazing deal - $6 for a bundle of wood which included kindling, paper and matches! We got three of them. We also got a couple of extra bundles from the Visitor Centre at the Park. 

Hunger and curiosity got the best of us and we went to the Wheat Montana Bakery & Deli. Sadly, there wasn’t anything that Crys could really enjoy, however, I got a decadent sub loaded with ham, pulled pork, cheese, and a bunch of other goodies. I was rather shocked to find that the pulled pork was in a white sauce, and I’m used to the bbq variety. It was different, but delicious.

We had taken our tour of the lower Visitor Centre and enjoyed it immensely. We also met one of the new Park Rangers who would be beginning this season, he was from Long Island, and extremely personable. Crys also noticed a sign on the outside door that intrigued both of us. There was to be an ‘Owl Night Hike’ with Park Ranger Tom Forwood Jr. There was a $4.00 admission fee, but it wasn’t much and could be worth so much more. We signed up.

We all met back at the lower Visitor Centre at 7:30pm. We dressed warmly as there was a soft but biting breeze, and winter was still trying to get her claws into the world while spring fought valiantly to beat her off. A group get together in the meeting room taught us a lot about the owls in the area, and I even learned something. Great Horned Owls are immensely disliked as they will not only feast upon rodents, reptiles and arachnids but they will also hunt other birds - including owls. They could be the great bane, winged death and also genocide. They are large, fierce and don’t seem to fear anything in the skies.

Owls are year round denizens of the park and while vocal all year, are most so in the early spring. In the lower park, right on the border of the campground, was a wonderful nest. That of the Great Horned owl, and even contained some adorable little owlettes. We all got to look through the telescope and marvel at these wonders of the hunting realm. There were two nests and we saw more owls than I would have thought possible so close to humans, but I guess the pickings would be better there; everyone feasting on the humans waste in their circle of life.

GREAT HORNED OWLS

After a lengthy wander and discussions, yes discussions, we piled into vehicles and drove up into the closed park. That was kind of a thrill, as Ranger Forwood had to unlock the gates and let everyone in. We drove for perhaps a mile up the mountain and then pulled over and walked a short distance further. We were hunting for owls, particularly the Northern Saw-whet.

Ranger Forwood had a lovely set of recordings on his cell phone and used them to ‘lure’ any nearby owls into showing themselves. We strained to hear something, anything that would resemble an owl call, but nothing. Another nearly silent walk for about a half mile up the mountain to a look out point. Out came the cell phone again. This time we were rewarded. From out of the deep darkness of the night came a high pitched “too-too-too”. We had flushed a Saw-whet out of hiding.

I still have to wonder if that was the right thing to do, or not. To knowingly get a small owl to show itself when there were Great Horned Owls in the near vicinity. Would they get him at some point, or would he fly free and safe? I’ll never know.

It was a phenomenal experience, quietly hiking up the steep road while listening intently for the calls of the owls, and knowing that this was something not everyone gets to do. A treat, a thrill, make sure you check it out next year!

We fell into bed and into deep sleeps, tired after all the fresh air and the exhilarating walk. The skies still threatened rain, but neither of us was worried.

Day Ten

May 1, 2016

Whitehall, Montana

Lewis and Clark Caverns

Morning dawned bright and fair at the Lewis and Clark Caverns National Park, and we got our standard camping fare breakfast done and out of the way, packing up our gear had to wait until after the Caverns due to heavy condensation. Okay, so NEVER put a tarp over the tent, always string it up and leave lots of breathing room. Valuable lessons one learns while camping!

We finally made our way up the mountain; a curvy drive with absolutely gorgeous views. The sun was warm and it was one of those mornings when everything just felt right. Tickets were purchased after talking with the cashier, who was kind enough to give me a head start so I wouldn’t get left behind. It’s a 300 foot vertical ascension, spread out over a mile or so, so to be honest I was rather worried about if I would make it or not. For the first time, my limitations might really mess up my plans. It was bad before, now I get to add osteoarthritis to the list of health issues.

Crys and I made our way across the parking lot to the cafe/gift shop and poked around there for a time. I was to leave at 9:15 and the rest of the group at 9:30. We had a few minutes to poke about and check things out, and of course make a purchase or two.

When it was time we headed up the mountain, and I couldn’t have asked for a better day for a hike. It wasn’t as bad as I had been fearing, but I am glad that I had the extra time. Crys and I made it to the top in decent time, I didn’t stop along the way to rest although I wanted to; too stubborn, I guess. One of the group turned back about halfway to the entrance, and I’m glad it wasn’t me. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that experience for anything!

NI ABOUT TO DESCEND

I was amazed throughout the entire hike through the Caverns. Such intense beauty, so many hundreds of thousands of years to form. I was saddened by the amount of people who don’t heed the rules and run their hands along the formations. Oils from our hands kill those living rocks and they won’t grow anymore. They become polished over time, and there are numerous pieces of stalactites and stalagmites missing. I believe it takes a 100 years to grow a millimetre, if it will grow. Sometimes the water sources have moved and that’s it for that formation.

Crys was right, it was definitely worth it. Every inch of the delightfully amazing caverns shared something new and beautiful. There’s even one spot where you have to slide down on your bum and there’s a small bump in the middle. The rock here is slick and shiny from use, and just utterly gorgeous. 

There are certain formations with names, and each separate ‘room’ has its own designation.

INSIDE THE CAVERNS

Some areas you can look through to but cannot enter, and they’re stunning as well. The history of the Caverns is just amazing, and the original tours were led by candle light held in tin cans, similar to the old miners.

EERIE FORMATIONS

How this was found, explored and then shared is enough to boggle the brain, and incidentally, it wasn’t Lewis and Clark who discovered the Caverns. It was actually discovered in 1882 by two people from Whitehall, Montana, Charles Brooke and Mexican John. The story is fantastic, and thankfully the tour guide will tell you the whole thing.

Our tour was led by Amy, who’d been here the year before and had the spiel down to a science. We hit a step that was marked “1 Mile High” and I had to wonder, is there a mile high club for underground as well as in the skies? Twisted, yes, but it does make you wonder and I had to ask. Amy informed me that in the 70’s there were probably a number of initiates, but that it wouldn’t be likely today. It felt odd to be that high above sea level, but be underground.

There were no problems with claustrophobia from anyone, and apparently that is quite rare, too. Fresh air circulates through the Caverns, even where the bats reside there is very little smell from them.

This is a natural scenic wonder that ought to be visited at least once in a lifetime. Myself, I plan on going back, and I know Crystal does too. In fact, this was her second trip through and I’m glad she suggested coming here for our trip. 

An hour or so later we emerged into the blinding sunlight once more, and made our way back to civilization, such as it is. Everyone was chatting amiably and remarking on the different aspects of the Caverns and the beauty, it was quite the feeling of peaceful camaraderie, but broken all too soon as we said farewell.

Once back at the campsite, we packed and loaded up our gear and turned our attention to the map once again. I-90 led us to hwy 93, which took us up to what was supposed to be our next destination for a night or two.

Didn’t happen. Once again we were greatly disappointed.


Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, if you happened to miss any you can catch up here:
Part 1 
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6

 
 

Gypsy Wind Part 6

Day Eight

April 29, 2016

Arco, Idaho

The coffee was hot and fresh at 0700 and I was happy! We loaded up the truck and headed out. In all honesty, most of the morning is a complete blur to my memory. I remember miles upon miles of empty land. Atomic City, a nuclear boomtown that became a ghost town roughly 66 years ago. There was once 50 nuclear reactors in the nearby National Reactor Testing Station, but after a string of deadly accidents, the town emptied out and at least three employees had to be buried in lead coffins. Makes you wonder.

There was a number of things that would definitely feed numerous conspiracy theories. Huge fences, stay out or regret it themed signs, a small mountain top stuck with so many antennas it looked like a foreign object itself. It wasn’t exactly the most comfortable of places to drive through and for the first time since we left Alberta, I really didn’t want to be somewhere.

Crys wanted to go to Idaho Falls as we were looking for a branch of a US Bank that would work with her bank back in Canada. I’m sure most of you know how this goes, some branches offer access to accounts at other institutions which is helpful when you are travelling. Well, we looked, but apparently it had been closed for some time. The benefit of this detour was a Sizzler Restaurant! Steak and a salad bar to beat all, and I hadn’t seen one since I was a kid!

It was about this time that I started feeling off, or perhaps I had been all day and it had been mild enough that I just hadn’t noticed. I wonder in retrospect if the area had anything to do with it; electrical impulses etc., etc. All that stuff works on the body and epilepsy is an electrical phenomena of its own. Anyhow, long story short, my steak as amazingly delicious and melted in my mouth, but I couldn’t finish it all. We went out to the truck, where I sadly placed the take out container on the roof and then forgot to grab it. My steak didn’t make it out of the parking lot; a waste.

From Idaho Falls we headed north once again, taking hwy 20 and passing through a small town called Rigby. It is fairly nondescript, and you’d not really think twice, except for the sign that caught my eye: "RIGBY IDAHO - THE BIRTHPLACE OF TELEVISION." Apparently, Rigby was the boyhood home of the inventor of television, Philo T. Farnsworth. Just one of those things that make you go ‘hmmmm.’

We continued on hwy 20, which would eventually lead us to the West entrance of Yellowstone National Park. Old Faithful was the next mandatory highlight on our list and we were both filled with excitement at wandering throughout the attraction within the areas of Yellowstone that are open before the roads are all opened, as the number of tourists would be at a minimum.

Say farewell to Idaho and hello to Wyoming, which is where the majority of Yellowstone National Park is located. We were both completely jazzed as we drove through the park, a lone bison walked down the edge of the road giving everyone a great view of a magnificent beast. A brief blast of hail caused a minor accident on the road on the way into Old Faithful and the Visitor Centre, luckily nobody appeared to be hurt. We notified a pair of Rangers who were just finishing up some business at a small parking lot; with the narrow roads in the park there isn’t a lot you can do in any abnormal situation, just notify the Rangers and don't block the roads.

We reached the Visitor Education Center at Canyon Village without any more excitement and were overjoyed to find out we only had a 45 minute wait, roughly, until Old Faithful was due to explode once again. That allowed me to get the passport stamped and both of us to learn a few things. Sadly, the Grand Loop Road was closed due to winter, so we would have to backtrack as far as Madison and then head north to Mammoth Hot Springs and the North Entrance to Yellowstone. It was all good, though.

The air was bitterly cold and we were well bundled up as we went outside to join the small crowd waiting for the geyser to erupt. As it finally blasted, there were a number of disappointed remarks and sounds. It was freezing out. When hot water meets cold air you get steam. Naturally, it wasn’t as impressive as it is in the summer, but it was still pretty grand! After all, not just every area has geysers galore, and one that runs on a pretty steady schedule is very amazing in my mind. So nothing to be disappointed in, still beautiful, still impressive and well worth the freezing wait! 

"OLD FAITHFUL"

I have now seen it in summer and in spring (although it was acting like winter it was spring!), and I hope I can come back and see Old Faithful again, and explore the park fully. Perhaps try to camp around it for a week, or so. I don’t even know if that would be enough time to take it all in.               

We headed across the parking lot to the souvenir shop where we looked for reasonably priced items of clothing and other items of interest. There was a great deal that caught my eye here, but the prices were also typical of tourist mecca’s. We didn’t stay too long as the light was fading and we wanted to enjoy a few more sites before we left the park.

The Lower Geyser Basin wasn’t too far away, where we would find the Fountain Paint Pot Nature Trail, and the Fountain Paint Pot. Crys wanted to revisit this incredible place, and I hadn’t seen it the last time I was at Yellowstone. I am SO glad that we stopped. This trail was filled with wonder after wonder and I couldn’t believe my eyes. In some ways this is so much MORE than Old Faithful, numerous smaller geysers of varying kinds that impress and amaze. This was just as alien a landscape as the Craters of the Moon, but it wasn’t ‘dead’ it was burgeoning with life.
 

TRAIL MAP

Perhaps the most amazing experience of the

PAINT POTS

whole trip took place in between the Spasm Geyser and the Jelly Geyser. We were walking and talking animatedly, lost in the conversation we rounded the corner, which had been hidden by stunted trees on the south side, and came face to face with a giant bison. He was simply gorgeous, powerful, and deadly.

Silence reigned supreme as we both momentarily froze. I lifted the camera and with my heart in my mouth, took a photo as Crys quietly and carefully began walking again. Only a few feet away and there were trees to protect us if we needed. He kept eating, one eye on us rather disinterestedly, and a few steps later another one was seen up behind him, grazing quietly. Camouflage is amazing on these big plains giants. They blended in so well, that we wouldn’t have seen them if we hadn’t known exactly where to look.

LORD OF THE REALM

By the time we were to the farther trees and what we thought might provide a little safety, our heart beats had slowed down to something more akin to normal. I’m not certain about Crys, but the writer in me was capturing every detail of the moment, and I was astounded that we had been so close we could touch him, and he couldn’t have cared less. Wild in the wilderness…

We were giddy with the leftovers of the adrenaline as we continued on our journey. I saw a timber wolf trotting down an access road, and was struck positively dumb. Such a gorgeous creature, and doing well since reintroduced to the park. A little further on and there was a bear just below the treeline. The one and only bear I would see the entire trip, I welcomed the brief glimpse.

The sky had been growing more menacing and the temperature dropped like a bomb, but truly neither of us was prepared for what hit next - SNOW! Okay, so perhaps there’s a reason the roads are closed in April. Maybe the States have a reason for having a slightly different time frame for their season. Perhaps we had been too harsh in our judgement. No, I still don’t think so. The flakes were huge and wet, and they kept falling thicker and thicker. This was insane and completely unexpected, and of course, exciting.

SPRING IN YELLOWSTONE

Crys handled the drive through the park like a trooper, past some pretty harsh and steep; Obsidian Cliff (7383 feet or 2250 metres), Sheepeater Cliff (unknown), that ought to give you the idea. The road had only been opened for two weeks, and here it was snowing. We finally reached the North Gate and were back into Montana. The road through Roosevelt Arch was closed, but that was ok, we went around it and stopped a little ways down the road in Gardiner for a hot coffee and an “oh my god we made it” moment.

Heading North on Hwy 89, we turned West when we reached the I-90 and set our hopes on Bozeman for the night. Camping was out of the question for this night. Snow, nerves, and a harrowing drive called for a comfortable bed and a hot shower. Checking through TripAdvisor and Trivago we located the Rainbow Motel in Bozeman, it looked promising. Mid-price, mid-ratings and free WiFi. It would do, provided they had a room for us.

After checking and getting comfortable we discovered that the Internet wasn’t exactly all it was supposed to be. I couldn’t get a connection for the life of me. Crys managed to get one, but it was fairly sketchy. I was once again thankful for the Travel Pass I picked up before leaving, it allowed me to do a lot I wouldn’t have dared otherwise.

We were both nerved up and tired, so it took a little while to pass out. I was able to reheat my coffee in the nuker, so I was happy with that. Also, the cup was salvageable for another cuppa when I wanted! TV reception was great, there was enough empty plug-ins to accommodate all of our electronic gear. It was definitely nice to be warm.

Gypsy Wind is an 8 part adventure, in case you have missed any previous parts:

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5