Gypsy Wind Part 1

~a circular route through Canada and the US~

Adventurers: Naomi DeBruyn & Crystal Kirkham
Region: Central Alberta to the West Coast and back again via the USA

Preliminary Prattle
April 21, 2016
Warburg, AB

I waited impatiently all day, until my ride got home from work. Then it was off to Benalto, where a new adventure would begin in the morning. It was a great drive, and I enjoyed the running commentary and anecdotes on the surrounding area.

After unloading and a quick goodbye, I went inside Crystal’s. I was met by a delicious ham supper, and introduced to roomies and friends, Deanna and Austin.

It was not the night I had thought we would be having. I had thought we would be pouring over the maps and checking out our routes, packing up Crys’ stuff and generally getting everything ready to go in the morning. However, that's not how it worked out. The truck had to go for a tranny flush, and our departure was going to be delayed by a couple of hours. So everything was left for the morning.

Crys was kind enough to share her bed with me. It was my first time sleeping on memory foam; it is not as bad as I had thought it would be. While it does feel like it will hold you completely immobile, it really does allow for movement, and since I’m a side sleeper who can’t make up her mind that is a bonus!

There was a wonderful windstorm, with a little rain, which was nice to fall asleep to. Then, Austin's cat, Bait, was howling and scratching at the window at some very catlike hour. Apparently nobody will let her in during the night but Crys, so she makes her way to the right window every time she’s ready to enter. I didn't sleep well as my mind was tossing and turning, but I did sleep.

Day One
April 22, 2016

Benalto, AB

Morning came, and between everything last minute we didn't get the truck back and get out of there until after 1230!!! So much for an early start!

 ELK in BANFF NATIONAL PARK

When we reached Banff National Park we were met by four of the park’s denizens checking out absolutely nothing in the middle of the road. These gorgeous Elk had picked up the scent of something, but there was nothing physically there. Of course, that didn’t stop them from scenting the spot and blocking both directions of traffic for a little while. We realized, sadly, that the Glacier Skywalk was something that had to be cancelled. Due to both the shortage of time and the fact that the weather was utterly deplorable over in that direction, we decided that we would make it a day trip at some other point in time during the summer. Taking the shorter route south, through Golden and Revelstoke would allow us to reach our night’s destination of Kamloops a little earlier. Or, so we had thought.

GYPSY ADVENTURERS

As we were heading west on Hwy 1, just 65km west of Golden and on the border of Glacier National Park, we hit a huge delay. The kind where you turn off your vehicle and patiently wait, or get upset as many people seemed to be doing, and turn around to take an alternate route. Mudflow was making a huge mess of the highway, and we were managing to move about a kilometre every half hour or so. Single lane traffic only and it was backed up like crazy! However, being both extremely curious and patient, we stuck it out.

I sat in the truck; a small stream cascaded off to my left and the mountains offered a gorgeous view to the right. People were walking dogs and chatting on cell phones outside of their vehicles, contending with the ravenous mosquitoes that were just beginning to make their evening presence known. I was torn, part of me wanted to read my ebook, while another part wanted to have a nap while I waited for Crys to get back from stretching her legs and visiting with a kinda cute young man who was exercising his dog. I actually opted out for just people watching, and enjoying the stillness.

My daughter texted me: "Oh boy! You should get a toboggan and ride those mudflows! Hahahaha!!

If not for the huge rocks and trees mixed into the deep mud slop, it could be a fun idea. However, not without crash gear!

MUDSLIDE

We were finally given the go ahead to begin moving cautiously along. It was a huge mess!

The amount of debris was actually kind of surprising. I knew it had been bad, but there was

detritus lining both sides of the highway and a mud river was actually slowly flowing along one side, in a channel that had been made for that purpose. A few kilometres worth of mess and we were back up to speed and winding our way through the mountains towards Kamloops.

Determined as we were to make our first designated stop, we realized it was going to a hotel kind of night. We were tired, it was rapidly getting dark and it had already been a very long day. We persevered and pulled into town around 2300 hours, local time, which was midnight for us, being an hour ahead due to mountain time. Time changes are always fun!

The Ranchland Inn was showing the best price and review combination that could be found on both trivalgo and trip advisor. We made a reservation online on our way into town, and then found our way to what would be a very comfortable stay.

What was supposed to be a camping trip was starting out in a disappointing manner, but that was ok, there were many nights ahead of us and sleep didn’t take any time in finding us.

Day Two

April 23, 2016

Kamloops, BC

What a wonderful feeling to wake up in the morning after having slept the whole night through in comfort. No drunks staggering in to wake you up, no staying awake half the night worrying, no cats or dogs pouncing or caterwauling, just deep peaceful sleep. It was phenomenal! Upon opening the door we were greeted with a beautiful view of the mist capped hills of the BC Interior. Stunning and revitalizing, it was great to wake up to.

View from the RANCHLAND INN in KAMLOOPS, BC

We enjoyed a cup of coffee as we discussed what we would do for breakfast. It is rather difficult to enjoy the standard Continental Breakfast offerings of most hotels when one has a gluten allergy. There was the simple choices of muffins (pre-cut into halves, seriously), toast and the required caffeine. While this would work for me, Crys wouldn’t be able to enjoy any of it. So, we needed to find a local establishment that would cater to Crys’ allergy. With some skillful searching on Trip Advisor, it was done - The Amsterdam Restaurant was perfect, serving gluten free meals and close.

While Crys enjoyed the authentic Dutch pannenkoek - a 12” wide gluten free European crepe, I worked on the Boer’s Omelette - stuffed full of Bavarian sausage, ham, double smoked bacon, onions, mushrooms and gouda cheese, with side of curry sauce. We hooked up with some old friends and enjoyed both great company and amazing food before returning to the hotel to pack up and head on our way once again.

Today’s final destination was to be Abbotsford, BC and the home of Crystal’s family. It was a bit of a drive still to get to the Coast, but we’d be taking the fastest route possible, Highway 5 - also the bit between Kamloops and Hope, known as the Coquihalla. In total, it is a 524 km north-south route located in southern British Columbia, connecting the southern Trans-Canada route with the northern Yellowhead route, providing the shortest land connection between Vancouver and Edmonton. While still a beautiful route, there is something lacking by cutting almost directly through the mountains instead of gently winding your way through.

While we made our way down the backside of the Coquihalla Pass, we watched the signs avidly and every so often began spouting off bits of Shakespeare. The history of this particular highway is amazing, to say the very least. Much of the four lane highway is actually built upon the remnants of the Kettle Valley Railway, engineered by one Andrew McCulloch. McCulloch was an avid reader of Shakespearean literature, and he used characters such as Lear, Jessica, Portia, Iago, Romeo and Juliet to name stations of the Coquihalla subdivision. As you drive along from the summit to Hope, keep your eyes open, you may notice small signs in the shape of an old steam locomotive, with Shakespearean names. These signs actually commemorate the approximate locations of the Kettle Valley Railway stations along today’s Highway #5. It makes for great fun if you happen to know any Shakespeare at all!

We reached the bottom of the Pass before we knew it, and both suddenly realized that we were home. It was an instinctive internal feeling that I really cannot explain. However, this is where we are both from, the West Coast of British Columbia, Canada; Crys from Abbotsford, and myself from Victoria on Vancouver Island. Dwarfed by forest giants lining the highway with such glorious shades of green, it felt good, it felt right, even the very air felt like home. 

HOPE AND BRIDAL VEIL FALLS, BRITISH COLUMBIA

Eventually we took the turnoff for Popkum Rd and followed the signs for Bridal Veil Falls Provincial Park, still luxuriating in the fact that our instincts and bodies knew that we were home. We parked in the lot surrounded by more forest giants, and passing by a pack of cyclists, headed into the woods following the trail that led to the Falls. I took my trekking pole along, knowing full well that I am in even worse shape than i had been last year and that with the onset of arthritis, it might not be such an easy hike. I was right.

It wasn’t far to the Falls, their beauty and splendour loudly announced to all visitors in a vibrant 122 metre (400.26 ft) cascade. Surrounded by lush forest, the natural beauty was staggering. While I caught my breath below the base, Crys happily made her way up to it. I know it would have been worth it, but I didn’t want to risk a torqued knee or spine at this point in the trip. I knew there would be great photos for me to drool over, and I was right!

BRIDAL VEIL FALLS

We made our way back to the truck through the woodland route, enjoying the sunlight playing through the leaves, the scents and visual cornucopia that both of us had been missing for far too long. While a little bit longer than the direct route, this path was also at its end far too abruptly. 

This is a great day park, and a great place to stretch your legs after a long haul on the highway. However, there was only so much stretching we could do, and Crys was excited to see her family. We didn’t dally any longer than necessary, except for a brief stop at the gas station for coffee before heading back to the highway. 

ABBOTSFORD, BC

It wasn’t far to the family home, and the family was welcoming and a great deal of fun! Instead of staying in it was decided that we would be going out for something. The night was legendary! We had the most incredible feast at Memphis Blues BBQ, where we had a great time visiting and stuffing our faces. Both of which can be done simultaneously if one pays a little bit of attention to what they are doing.

This meal required not only fingers, but some careful maneuvering so as not to end up wearing anything. Yes, cutlery would have worked, but not well enough - and who eats ribs with a knife a fork?! In all honesty, I was wishing that I had room for more, because the flavours were so incredible. Truly, I don’t know what was better, the chicken, the pulled pork, the ribs… oh, it could be a feast for kings so very easily!

I will be stopping in when I’m back in the neighbourhood again, as nothing I’ve had to date comes close to this platter - the ‘Memphis Feast’!

MEMPHIS BLUES - MEMPHIS FEAST

After the feasting everyone was rather food stupefied and wanted nothing more than to just chill, and perhaps sleep. A brief wander around the shopping complex and we were headed back to the house for a little more visiting and then sleep.

Day Three

April 24, 2016
Abbottsford, BC

It felt good to be so close to home! For me, at least. I know Crys felt awesome being at home with her family, even if she had her own place in Alberta now, this was and would always be home. Just something about the Coast, you don’t leave it - EVER!

Apparently, it had snowed in Alberta overnight. This wasn’t a concern as we didn’t plan to be anywhere near there for another week and a half, or so. Okay, I will admit it, I laughed. I did. It wasn’t exactly balmy where we were, either, but it was not snowing! It had rained a little during the night, and as we sat with our coffee the deluge began once again. Ok, well, our hike in Golden Ears Park was apparently a wash-out (no pun intended) due to the lovely liquid sunshine. Apparently, the park would be nothing more than a mud hole, which could be fun, but wasn’t the most promising adventure for Crystal’s parents.

We decided to try an alternate plan instead, beginning with a drive to White Rock to visit with Crys’ Aunt & Uncle. While there we toured the gardens and enjoyed some beautiful artwork, this talented couple were great to visit with and I hope to someday see them again. However, we couldn’t stay there all day! We went to The Boathouse for a sumptuous lunch and some incredible views of the Pacific Ocean. The tide was coming in and the weather clearing up, it was perfect for a short stroll along the promenade. 

While I enjoyed the whole experience, there was a constant tug at my heart strings, home was so close. A short ferry ride away and I would be back on my Island. However, it was not to be and I had to content myself with the tangy scent of the ocean on the crisp breeze; the shimmer of the water in the sun as the tide crept closer and closer. I said a mental farewell as we piled into the truck and turned inland once again.

We made a brief detour on the way back to Abbotsford, one which perked me up a little and allowed me to put smiles on the faces of those back home. We stopped at the set of the Bates Motel in Aldergrove. Sadly, they’d finished their filming for the season and everything was in the process of being boarded up, covered with tarps, and just generally hidden away from the curious eyes of the public. However, it was a rather cool pause in our journey.

BATES MOTEL

That evening we watched a Pirates of the Caribbean movie, just enjoying being together and preparing to say farewell. Then we did go over the map of Washington; figuring out which route would be the best for us to take.

Perhaps not the day we had planned, but a great day all the same.

 
~next up, the US, Mountain Passes and Bigfoot~